How to make a plasterboard false ceiling

Indeed, plasterboard suspended ceilings are very popular nowadays. Partly due to the fact that the manufacture of such a ceiling is not expensive and relatively easy, so even beginners should not have problems with fasteners and installation of such a device. Installation of a plasterboard suspended ceiling is carried out according to a certain general scheme, which makes its installation even more affordable. The GKL construction can be installed in the bedroom, in the children's room and even in the kitchen. In addition, many craftsmen install a false ceiling with their own hands and in garages.

Drywall sheets are quite versatile. You can often find not only a suspended plasterboard ceiling, but also a plasterboard wall sheathing. In order to learn how to make a suspended plasterboard ceiling, step-by-step instructions will suffice.

What is this article about

  • How to make a plasterboard false ceiling

False ceiling installation

A plasterboard suspended ceiling is a structure made up of a single-level or multi-level frame made up of metal profiles that are attached to the ceiling and walls of the house, as well as of plasterboard sheets with which this frame is sheathed. All lamps, chandeliers, lamps and other lighting fixtures are built into the structure.

In order to create a plasterboard ceiling frame, two types of metal profiles are used. Between themselves, they are connected with special self-tapping screws for metal and crabs. If you are creating a two-level ceiling, you will need a special connection.

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Surface preparation

Plasterboard suspended ceilings require special preparation of the surface on which they will be installed. You need to remove all the old trim from the ceiling. When the trim is removed, inspect it for cracks and loose plaster. After the ceiling is put in order, you can putty it and proceed with the installation of the structure.

Project

It is very important to make a project. Plasterboard suspended ceilings are not such an easy construction, although an amateur can handle it. The main part of the project is the design scheme. Make a detailed drawing, which will mark all the attachment points of metal profiles, their dimensions, device. You should get as detailed a diagram as possible on paper so that you have a clear picture of what and how you need to do before your eyes. It is impossible to draw up the same scheme for all ceilings, because the situations are different and all the nuances must be taken into account in drawing up the drawing.

The drawing will also help you calculate the final cost of the false ceiling. In the drawing, you can see how many profiles are required and what size, you can calculate the cost of drywall sheets, and with them the amount of putty for finishing the structure.

2-schema-karkasa

Another element of the project, which is also important, but can wait until the structure is assembled. This is a sketch, a sketch that displays the design of the ceiling. It needs to depict all additional plasterboard pieces that will be mounted on the ceiling, as well as, if necessary, finishing. This will allow you to immediately assess how successful the design you have chosen for the ceiling is, and whether it matches the design of the rest of the room.

Consumption of components

Enter design parameters for calculation

Room width (in meters):
Room length (in meters):
 
NameConsumption rateMaterial consumptionU measurement
1. Plasterboard sheet - GKL sheet size 2.5 * 1.2 - 3 sq.m1sheet
2. Guide profile PN 27/28 profile length 3 running metersperimeterPC.
3. Ceiling profile PP 60/27 profile length 3 running meters3PC.
4. Suspension straight4PC.
5. Connector single-level "crab"2PC.
6. Self-tapping screws 3.2 * 25 for drywall34PC.
7. Putty "Fugenfüller" ("Uniflot")0.9kg
8. Reinforcing tape2.2running meters
9. Dowel-nails 6/401.5PC.
10. Sealing tapeperimeterlinear m.
11. Deep universal primer0.2l
12. Mineral wool board1sq.m
13. Finishing putty1.2kg

*Attention ! All results are approximate - the accuracy depends on the material of the walls, the condition and shape of the room

markup

In addition to the diagram on a paper sheet, you also need to apply an approximate marking of the wall and ceiling. It is necessary to mark the length of the frame from the ceiling and put a few notes on the walls. With the help of a paint thread, you need to connect all the marked points in a line. This line is needed in order to install the guide profiles, which will become the foundation of the future frame.

Next, you need to apply markings to the ceiling, which will mark the place for attaching the main metal frame profiles. Again, with the help of a paint thread, marks the lines on the ceiling. The length of the distance between the lines should always be sixty centimeters, because profiles must be attached at this distance.

Wireframe creation

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We start with the installation of guide profiles. To do this, first of all, it is necessary to drill holes for dowels along the line drawn in advance. Similar holes must be drilled on the profile itself. Dowels must be driven into these holes and thus the guide elements of the frame should be fixed to the walls.

Next, you need to fix the suspensions. We install them on the marked lines and begin to drill holes through the suspensions into the ceiling. Then we hammer the dowels into the drilled holes, and thus we fix forty suspensions on the ceiling.

installation

After that, the main frame is attached. The antennae of the suspensions must be bent so that the profile can pass through them. We start a profile in them and fix them with metal screws. It remains only to fix the structure with crabs. From whole metal profiles we cut jumpers of suitable sizes for us and with the help of crabs we fix them in the frame.

Plasterboard sheathing

Our next step is to cover the ceiling with plasterboard sheets. In order to choose the right material, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the varieties of drywall sheets. The first type is ordinary drywall sheets, which are gray in color and are used most often. The second type is green moisture-resistant plasterboard sheets. They are able to increase the resistance to moisture and are great for installation in bathrooms and other rooms containing a high level of humidity in the air. The third type is refractory pink plasterboard. They have increased resistance to fire and are suitable for those who want to protect their home from fires or simply often work with flammable items indoors.

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We fasten drywall sheets to the frame so that two adjacent sheets are on the same profile, and each sheet is fixed by three profiles. Plasterboard sheets are fastened with metal screws. There is one nuance here. You need to screw them in so that the head of the self-tapping screw completely enters the drywall sheet and goes deep into it. If necessary, drywall sheets must be cut. Fortunately, they are cut very easily, although this creates a large amount of dust.

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